★★★★★
March 19, 2025
they but the gap always close look's like they are are to long but they work not good but ok i love lifetime warranty
Replaces
Replaces Engine Oil Filter
$43.05
Dual Magnet Parts Tray
$26.95
Part Details
Specifications
Returns: Parts with electrical components cannot be returned once installed.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
Returns: Parts with electrical components cannot be returned once installed.
FREE Shipping is standard on Orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii, Alaska and US Territories. Shipping is not available to Canada.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii and US Territories as well as P.O. Boxes and APO/FPO/DPO addresses. Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Use a 5mm Allen key to remove the plastic engine cover. There are one, two, three, four bolts holding it on. Lift that off and put it aside.
These are your four ignition coils. I'm going to show you how to remove this one, procedure will be exactly the same for the other three. Start by pushing this clip in and wiggle the connector out. Use a 10mm socket and ratchet and use a retaining bolt. Put that bolt aside. Grab it on both sides, and kind of wiggle it, because there is a boot that goes down over the spark plug. It's got a little suction to it. Pull it out and that's how you remove the coil.
Your spark plugs are located down in the head through these access holes. Before you remove the spark plugs from the holes, to make sure there's no debris in there, if you've got access to compressed air with a blow gun, you should blow the holes and blow out any debris so you don't have any fall into the cylinder with the spark plug pulled out of there. These ones are actually pretty clean, so we're in good shape.
We can use a 5/8 spark plug socket. It has the little rubber holder in here that's going to grab onto the electrode end. It'll allow me to pull the spark plug out of the cylinder head once it's loose. We can just do these one at a time. Pull one out, replace it with the new one, move on down the line. Your old spark plug we pulled out, it's pretty dirty and sooty and it's got a bit of a fuel odor. The car actually had a check engine light for a random misfire. So it seems like it's time for a tune-up.
This is our new spark plug from 1AAuto.com. It is an exact match for the one that came out of the vehicle. It's ready to go and be installed. The electrode is nice and fresh and it's not worn out. This will really help the car out and basically be like driving a new car again.
Take our new spark plug, place it into the spark plug socket. That's why it has the little rubber holder in there so it doesn't fall out while you're trying to install it. Just going to install it by hand so it doesn't get cross threaded. Once I've swapped out all of them, I'll come back and torque these. Thread it down until it stops. Move to the next one. With the plugs threaded in just hand-tight until they stopped, I'll now torque them. The torque is 15 to 21 foot-pounds. I'm going to set my torque wrench at 17. We'll torque them down.
This bolt hole is just a metal insert into this plastic valve cover, so we're not going to over-tighten those. We'll tighten them very carefully so slide the coil down, push it over the spark plug, and let it sit in there. Get the bolt started. Just using my wrist to tighten it. Right when I feel it get tight, I'm going to stop because I don't want to pull the serrated insert out of the plastic valve cover.
Reinstall the connector, and repeat this procedure for the rest of the coils. Reinstall the engine cover, reinstall your four bolts. These bolts are just going into aluminum, just holding on a plastic cover. Not a lot of torque on these. Job is complete.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this helpful video helps you out. The next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks. In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the spark plugs on this 2003 Nissan Maxima, pretty much the same as any Maxima that has this 3.5 liter motor in it. You'll need a T30 Torx driver, a 10mm socket as well as a 5/8 spark plug socket with an extension. You'll also need a 12mm socket and pliers and probably a flat blade screwdriver. In the first part of the video, we'll just show you actually how simple it is to replace the plugs, the front three plugs. The rear three plugs, you do have to take the upper intake plenum off. On the second part of the video, that's what we'll show you, is how to remove and reinstall that upper intake plenum.
Okay, start with a T30 Torx driver and remove the four bolts that hold the top engine cover. So the coils on this side of the engine really easier to see, 10mm socket, remove the bolt and there's a connector here. They have a tab on the top. Push the tab and push in the tab with that finger. Disconnect. Just take the bolt out. Okay, and then the coils come right out.
To remove the plugs, you'll need a 5/8 spark plug socket with extension. This socket is designed to kind of grab on to the plug. Put it down in. Okay. The plug comes up. You see I have some paper towel. My socket's kind of old so the extra pieces of paper towel just helps grab onto the plug. Okay, when you reinstall the plugs, either new ones or if your checking your old ones and reinstalling them, you want to make sure that they're gaped correctly. It should .044. Okay, the gap tool here, .044. Good check on the condition too. These things go in its nice and perfect with a little bit resistant when I put my gap tool in there.
That's good. Just make sure it's set right into the spark plug socket really well. Down in carefully, nice and centered. It goes right in. Okay, I'm just going to fast forward here as I put them in. When you tighten the spark plugs, you'll only want to have them between 20 and 25 foot pounds which is not overly tight. You want to be careful not to over tighten them 'cause they can cause problems coming up when they're done with their life. Okay, new coil from 1A Auto, just like the original. It should go right in there just the same. Down in. Just push it straight down to reconnect the lead. Put the bolt back in. Okay, and you can see the two in the front here. Just use that one and you may be saying, "Well how about the rear ones?"
The rear ones are pretty easy. You do have to take this intake plenum off and I'm going to show you that real quick. Okay, we're going to start up top here with a flat blade screwdriver. Loosen up the clamp that holds the intake hose on. That's nice and loose. Okay. Make sure you can pull this off the intake and then we're going to disconnect the green connector here. Okay, just push on the little tab just on the front here and take that off. Then we're going to disconnect this middle line here and then pull that clamp off and then use my pliers to grab onto the hose to make sure the hose twist a little bit and pull that off.
With a 10mm socket, we're going to take off this bolt here and put that bracket to the side and we're going to take off this bolt here. Okay, these up in here, it allows that to come off. Now, we're going to use a 12mm socket. Okay, I can't really show them to you because they're back in here but if you take your hand and reach back in here, you'll feel two bolts, okay. They're going in this way. Okay, you'll need to remove those two bolts at the bracket holding up the back of the plenum. As I'm looking back here, I can see that there's another vacuum line. I'm just going to use my pliers. There's a clamp. Squeeze the clamp then you need to grab off with the pliers to get the hose to twist. Pull it off.
Then I'll take my extension and there are two 12mm nuts on each end and then three 12mm bolts to remove. Disconnect this lead. I'll take my screwdriver and pry out the clip that holds the harness. Use the screwdriver and again pry the clip off that holds to the harness. Use a little push on the two teeth on each side. Okay. Out here on the back side, you see I disconnected this here. There's also two connectors, little tabs. Disconnect them then squeeze this clip as well and disconnect this line. Pull these two vacuum lines up on their clip and vice versa. Disconnect that connection and pull this up. Now, you can lift it up and push it out of the way enough. I'll show you here. We're going to lift it up out of the way that you can now get to the coils. You may want to just have somebody help you out lift it out of the way. It's the middle one that's probably the most difficult one. I'm just going to fast forward as I put the coil back on. It's just pretty much of a reversal procedure. Make sure that there's nothing, no wires or anything between the upper intake plenum and the lower intake before you put it down. Get it down into place and make sure that you get the intake hose over the opening of the plenum on the driver side and then put it down in place.
Just check underneath to make sure there's nothing between the plenum and the engine intake. I can see it go down on the stud here. It goes down. Lift it up on the back side here. Okay, down there. Pull the intake tube up. Once you get that intake tube on, it goes down nice and easy. Okay, once it's in place, take and put the two nuts and the three bolts that hold the upper intake to the lower intake. I'll put those in place. Then I actually put the two bolts that hold the rear of the intake to the bracket, put those in place and tighten them up and after I tighten those rear end up then I'll tighten the plenum down. You'll want to tighten it down to about 25 to 30 foot pounds.
I basically kind of try and go methodically from the passenger side rear, reconnect the two connections back there and those two vacuum lines then come around to the front and bolt on the two brackets and make sure that the connections are reconnected. Then around to the throttle body in air intake side. Bolt everything back together. Make sure all of the electrical connections are connected and all vacuum connections are connected. Basically what I do is after I'm done, I just look very carefully around. You basically look for any clean or shiny spot.
Basically when you take connectors apart, you'll notice they're dirty but when you take them apart, the part that had fit together nice and clean, it's a good idea just to look around and look for any clean spots or shiny spots that might indicate that there's something that hasn't been reconnected. Once you have it all reconnected then you can put your intake cover back on.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the spark plug on this 2003 Nissan Altima with the 2.5 liter, 4-cylinder engine. The items you'll need for this are new spark plugs from 1AAuto.com, 10mm socket and ratchet, 5mm Allen bit, and a 5/8 inch spark plug socket, as well as a gap tool.
To access the ignition coils, you first have to remove this engine cover. It's held in by these four 5mm Allen bolts. We'll just fast forward as Don removes these. Now, the cover just lifts right off. Here are your four ignition coils. It's held in with one 10mm bolt and the harness right here. Just push the tab and pull that harness off, and then remove that 10mm bolt. The ignition coil just lifts right up and out. With the ignition coil removed, you can see the spark plug right down in there. Using an extension and your 5/8 inch socket, you want to just remove that spark plug. If the plug doesn't come right out, then you can use a magnet or pliers to reach down and grab it.
You'll want to set the gap between the center electrode and the ground electrode. On this, it should be .044. Set it by sliding the spark plug tool in between there and make sure there's a little resistance when you pull it in and out.
Carefully, put the spark plug back down in and thread it in by hand to make sure you don't cross-thread it. Once it's seated, you want to tighten it between 18 and 20 foot pounds. Now, put your coil back down in and replace the 10mm bolt. You'll want to reconnect it and repeat these steps for the rest of the spark plugs.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
NGETK00035
they but the gap always close look's like they are are to long but they work not good but ok i love lifetime warranty
Worked well for a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder. Replaced spark plugs and coils at the same time. Truck shifts smoother now and I can tell a difference in power and acceleration.
From my experience NGK spark plugs are the best out there and these shipped fast and free.
Great ??
Very good service and will continue to buy from here
Expedite quick, great price, will be ordering soon for my other car
I believe you may mean to ask if these are pre-gapped. Yes, the parts are pre-gapped but we always suggest double-checking them prior to installation just due to movement while shipping.
