★★★★★
December 19, 2022
Perfect fit like always. Any time I need parts I look here first.
Replaces
Replaces Engine Oil Filter
$50.98
Dual Magnet Parts Tray
$26.95
Part Details
Specifications
Returns: Parts with electrical components cannot be returned once installed.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
Returns: Parts with electrical components cannot be returned once installed.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi. I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1aauto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we'll be showing you how to replace the spark plugs and plug wires on this Honda Accord V6. Process is similar for most Honda V6s. Tools you'll need are a five eighth inch spark plug socket, an extension and ratchet and maybe an extendable magnet.
Replacing spark plugs and wires on these Honda V6s is actually a pretty easy job but it's also kind of easy to mess up. Many times I've heard people say, "I took all the wires and plugs out and then I put it all back together but now my car doesn't run right." That's because you have to put everything back together correctly. The key is just do them one at a time. Take one wire off and one plug off, put the plug back in and put the wire back on. Very easy to work on like I said; all these six plugs are accessible.
On the rear, you can easily see, they're all very easy to get to. What you want to do is you pull the plug out over to here and then you give it a good twist. While you're twisting, pull it up and out. That's your plug wire. You'll need a five eights spark plug socket and an extension and put it right down in there and then just take the plug out. Once it gets easy to turn, it's usually a pretty good sign that your plug is all the way out and if you have a good socket you should be able to pull it up and out. My socket is a little worn out so my plug stayed down in there.
So a good tool to have around is a little extendable magnet which goes right down in and pulls the plug out. Actually, you can see somebody that did this before. It looks like they put a little bit of a paper towel around it to hold it into their socket probably. So you got the plug out and if you're replacing the wires at the same time or if separately. Now, you want to just take the whole wire off and, again, here at the distributor, twist and pull and then the wires on this car are actually fairly new so I'm not going to replace them, but you would not put your new wire on right in place because you have to make sure that you put each wire back on the same spot on the distributor. That's why you don't want to just take them all off and then try and put them back on, you just do them one at a time. Always route the back the way they were originally.
Before your installing your plugs, you want to check the gap and according to the sticker that's on the hood, right there, it tells you what kind of plugs to have and it also tells you what the gap is supposed to be. I'm sure you can't read it, maybe you can, but it says the gap is 1.1 millimeters which translates into .044 inches. I have a little gap tool and .044 just barely gets through there. That's set correctly. You might have noticed I've skipped through a different hole, but a good way to put these plugs back in is actually with a little bit of glue. Just put a little glue on there because my socket is worn and it won't hold on to the spark plug. A little bit of glue makes it so the spark plug sticks in there. You get it down in, start turning.
You always want to make sure you could turn it by hand first because if it's difficult to turn at all then you might be cross-threading is and you don't want to do that. Okay, tighten it. You want them snugged but not too tight. Put the spark plug wire down in there, make sure it clicks. Make sure you put the wire back into its correct spot.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that here's for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right part installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video I am going to share some tips with you for changing the plugs. This is a 2000 S10 Blazer with a 4.3 liter. I'm not going to show you changing all the plugs but what I am going to show you is the tools I use to make the job pretty easy and the technique especially on the driver's side middle plug which is pretty hard to get to. The tools you'll need are a plug socket, you will need a universal or flexible joint and an extension and a ratchet. I set the car up on a lift, not because you have to, but because it's a little easier to film this way but if you do have a jack and jack stand, it is probably good to lift your car up because it gets this wheel down out of the way.
The best way to get to your spark plugs is right though your inner fender here. You can see here's my middle spark plug. There's my rear one back there and then my front one is there. These, the middle and front, the boots are L-shaped, so hard to film all of this but you can basically just reach in and you want to try and twist the boot on the plug a little bit and then pull. Now for this rear one, my usual method and hopefully you can see this here is to grab onto it. There are special pliers that they have for these spark plug boots but I grab onto, get a good grip with a set of needle nose pliers and again you want to take this and twist it and then pull. You always want to try and twist these because that breaks the seal with the spark plug and these two rear ones are easy to get to.
I am not going to show you actually taking them out but you want to use obviously your spark plug socket and then a 12" extension and then your ratchet and then you can easily get to your middle one and your rear one. The front one's a little harder. I'm going to reach in there and grab hold of the boot, twist it, drop out of place, put a flexible joint between your extension and your socket and then you can put it up in here but you're gonna see that but I'll use my other hand, guide it onto the spark plug and then right in there and then you can undo it. I'll do this one just to show you. Just bolt it on bolt really. There's my plug out. You can see it's kind of black and corroded.
Most of the time, on your vehicle, you've got a tag like this. Right here, you probably can't see it, but it says, Spark plug gap, 0.060". You can also find this usually in your owner's manual and the gap is the distance between the tip of the spark plug diode here and this here and this is my gauge, so it says, 0.060, right there so I want this to be able to just slide through there with a little bit of resistance. Looks like this is set just a little bit small. I'm going to pull it back so it just slides through there, so that's 0.060. When you put your plug back in, it's very crucial that you don't cross thread which means you want to thread it in and you don't want to feel really hardly any resistance so this first one in the front, I'm just going to use my socket.
For these two rear ones, it would be a lot easier because they're pretty much a straight shot. I am going to put the socket in there and then I am going to carefully guide the spark plug into its hole and then I'm going to try to get it as straight as its supposed to be. Just slowly turn the socket. This is really difficult because it's bunched up it is here. Slowly turn the socket and make sure that if I encounter any resistance, I'm going to back it out because I don't want to cross thread. I don't want the threads to get messed up on the head of the vehicle, because then you won't be able to get a plug in here and get a seal.
That's not quite working so what I'm going to do is I am going to take my extension and U-joint and I am going to try and hold the socket kind of steady and just start to spin the U-joint. Everything should spin nice and lightly and it does seem to be going straight in. The spark plug is a bit into the head. You want to hand tighten them first pretty much until you feel it seed on the head and then you can use your wrench. Plugs, they're supposed to be about 25 foot-pound, not really extremely tight. This is a small wrench so I'm going to pull it tight but you don't have to go crazy. Like I said you don't want to strip the threads on the head. They don't have to be extremely tight and you also want to be able to get them off. Now, I'll put the plug wire back on. I'll do the other two and I'll show you the other side.
From the driver's side you got some tight spaces. You can see up in there. I put the socket on there from the bottom. That's the middle plug. This plug here, not a problem, nice and straight. This plug here, you can get with the U-joint without too much problem but this middle one, what you want to do is get your socket on from the bottom. Now, what you do is basically take your extension. This is rubber right here. If you press this or you squeeze this, you'll feel the shaft is actually oval shaped inside so you want to turn your wheels just slightly so the flat part of the shaft is down and then stick your wrench in there.
You basically get into the socket just enough to get enough pressure on it to loosen it up and then when you tighten it, get enough pressure on there to get it tight. I was actually pretty amazed I was able to do it on this and this is a pretty old rusty S10 from the northeast. That's how you get to that one. Once you get it loose, then you just go up in there with your fingers and loosen the socket with your fingers and just pull the socket and the plug out at the same time. This is an impossible film but what I was able to do was without the socket, when I put in back in, I got the plug up in there and then I basically kind of held it with my forefinger into the hole and I spun it with my middle finger so you basically just kind of push on it with your forefinger into the hole and you can reach in there enough to just twist it like that with your forefinger.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the spark plugs on this 2002 Ford Escape with the 2-liter 4-cylinder engine. The items you'll need for this are a 5/16 spark plug socket and ratchet with an extension, and a spark plug gap tool.
To remove the spark plug wires you want to pull and twist at the same time. Then, using your 5/16 spark plug socket, an extension, and a ratchet, just remove the spark plug. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that. The spark plug will pull right out.
You want to gap these so the distance between the electrode and the diode you want to be between .048 and .052. I'm going to go to .05, and you want to run this through there. Should have a little bit of resistance and a little bit of resistance coming out. You could shrink it down by bending like that or prying it up, but we'll set them all again to .050. That one's good.
Back into the spark plug socket. We'll fast-forward as Mike tightens that spark plug back into place. Now take your spark plug wire and push it back down into place. Make sure it's all the way down. You'll hear it click a little bit but you can feel it click more. Then repeat the process for the other three spark plugs.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
NGETK00021
Perfect fit like always. Any time I need parts I look here first.
Great value
Good price.
Fast shipping, Great price on this plug. Already swapped them out for old plugs, works great.
Thanks guys for doing what u do. Good stuff. Good prices. On time.
Replaced plugs and coils on my 2006 Lincoln Zephyr for 100K service. Plugs were pre-gaped to the correct measurement. Simple and cost effective. Ive orders from 1A Auto for years and never been disappointed. Great customer service and I appreciate the vids!
Arrived early, everything was correct and no problems after installation.
The price was awesome. Purchased with the coils on A1 it is a no brainer.
NGK is a high quality aftermarket brand that is and built to your vehicle's exact OEM specifications. They will be manufactured to the same quality standards as the OEM.
Yes, these parts will be pregapped.
Yes, this part will fit your vehicle.
These spark plugs are Platinum.
The spark plug gap should be 0.052 to 0.056 inches, or 1.32 - 1.42 mm.
Yes. The set I received included 6 plugs.
According to our details, .050 is the recommended spec for plug gap.
