★★★★★
August 16, 2024
Front shocks and rear struts
Fits great, and easy to replace, my daughter car feels like new, thank you 1Aauto
Replaces
Part Details
Specifications
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Hey friends, it's Len here at 1A Auto. Today I'm working on a 2007 Hyundai Elantra. I'm going to be showing you how to do some front struts. Going to be a very simple job. I want to be the guy who shows you how to do it. If you need these parts, or any other parts, you could always check us out at 1aauto.com. Thanks.
So right up here, on top of the strut mount or strut cap here, we have three nuts with studs that come up from the strut itself. Okay? That's right here. So I just want to point those out. Now what we're going to do is we're going to raise the vehicle and we're going to support it safely and then we're going to take off the wheel and we'll be able to access the rest of it from underneath.
Okay. So we're going to take off our five lug nuts here with a 21 millimeter socket. There we are. Now we're going to continue taking off the other four. This one here. Take off our last lug nut. Hubcap.
I'm going to use some Penetrant Spray. Going to spray right here, right here, this little bolt right there, and then the other big bolt here. And then there's one right back here which is just a bracket. So pretty much everything that I want to take off of the vehicle to do the strut I'm going to spray with Penetrant. We'll get that one, this one, this one, this one, that one. So now we're going to remove this right here. This is a 17 millimeter nut, but to hold this stud right here we're going to use some locking pliers. You can use whatever you happen to have. I'm just going to go from the backside, try not to crimp down the boot if you're replacing the sway bar link, which is always a good idea. You don't necessarily have to worry about the boot so much. If you're not, well, be careful for the boot, okay?
So I'm just going to try to grab on to this as tight as I can. See if that will work. So I've got my locking pliers on here. I'm going to go with my 17 on my half-inch gun. I'm going to just try to blast this off real quick. There we are. See if I can get the nut off. There it is. It's nice and warm. I'm going to put it down real quick. Get this out of the strut. Perfect. Let's move along.
12 millimeter right here. 12 millimeter right here. Three-eighths gun. Blast it off. Grab the next one. It's off nice and easy. There's our two bolts.
So now it's time to take off these nuts right here. There's one right here, one down lower. 19 millimeter and we're going to use a 17 millimeter wrench on the other side to hold the bolts. Okay? It's always a good idea to mark the bolts where they are so I'm just going to grab a crayon real quick. I should have one right here. I'm going to come around. I'm just going to mark, just a little mark on the bolt and on to the strut just so I can have kind of a guesstimate of which direction the bolts were just in case one of these is a cam adjustment. Just like that. Cool.
All right so now let's go ahead and take these nuts off. 17, 19. Here we go. Safety glasses. These are stuck in there pretty good. So we're going to take a little bit of Penetrant, I'm going to spray it in there real quick and then I'll show you how to get those bolts out. I'm just going to go ahead and use one of the nuts that we just removed from those bolts. I'm going to start it on one of them, you can pick whichever one you want to start with. Doesn't matter to me. I'm going to get it so it's just barely lined up flat with the bolt. We've got out ABS wire out the way. We want to make sure we don't bang that. I'm going to use my big fabulous hammer, just going to try to give this a couple bonks. Make sure out ABS wire stays out of the way. See if it's coming free. It is. Love it. Let's go some more. Perfect.
We'll take this nut off of here, we'll put it on this one and we're going to do the same thing. So let's just try to get this stuff out of the way the best we can here. We're going to go about doing the same process as we just did. Just pretty much giving it a couple love taps, right? A couple bonks. Just going to take this and you can use whatever you've got, wire ties or whatever. Essentially all you want to do is make sur that when you're hitting this with the hammer you're not going to bonk any of these. You don't want to mess up your brake hose or your ABS wire. Hammer time. Boo-ya. Get the nut off of here. We'll finish driving those bolts out.
So let's go ahead and drive these bolts the rest of the way out, okay? I'm going to use my big fabulous hammer. That's one. Two. We're just going to go ahead and separate these, just like that. Let's get this back off of here. Cool beans. Okay. Now we're just going to support this so it can't go very far. Use whatever you've got, whatever you've got and you can use essentially. But basically what we need to do is just make this so it can't come very far down because you don't want to separate your axle joints, right? It's going to cost you more money and who wants to spend more money that they don't have to? So let's figure out how to do that real quick and we'll move along.
All right. So we've got this so it's supported, it's not going to fall off, come falling down, pull on the axle or anything. Let's bring the vehicle back down and we'll remove those three upper strut nuts and this should be ready to come on out. So here we go. We're going to take off these 14 millimeter nuts. I'm going to use my 14 millimeter socket, three-eighths airgun. You can use whatever you've got, but they're 14s. I'm going to leave this one on a little bit. I'll fully remove that one. Put it down on the floor so I can find it later. Take this one off so I can show you it.
Now I'm going to come under the vehicle with one arm, I'm going to hold up the strut. Take off this nut and put it aside with the other one that I do know where is. And now I'm just going to lower the strut out. And there we go. Easy peasy.
So here we go friends. A quick product comparison for you. We have our original strut out of our 2007 Hyundai Elantra that we're working on and we have our brand new quality 1A Auto part here. I just want to show you the strut assembly comes fully assembled, obviously. It's got the spring. It's got your strut mount up here. Comes with the mounting nuts, that's always good because they're locking nuts. You want to make sure you've got those. It's got everything you need in here. Got your little jounce bumper, you know your dust boot and everything. It literally has everything that you're going to need. So, this is a quality part. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't be great to put into the vehicle. So let's just go ahead and do it. So if you need this, or any other part, you can always check us out at 1aauto.com.
So you'll notice up inside your strut mount up here, or the area where your strut mounts into, you've got a long area between here and here and it's much shorter between here and here, and there and there. Right? So you got a long area and two short areas. So you want to make sure that you get your strut lined up right. This right here can spin, it's supposed to, so that's good. We've got our long area here. Short. Short. There we go. So let's try it.
Just going to come in from underneath. Should be pretty easy here. See if I can get it. I spun it. I didn't get ... Cool. Got our brand new nuts. See if I can get this one on here. Awesome. So as you can tell our struts and knuckle mounting bolts are pretty rusted. I'm just going to go ahead and clean these up real quick and then we'll go ahead and put them in. So I've got our bolts nice and cleaned up. I'm just going to use a little bit of Never-Seez up along the top up here. This is just going to help get these bolts out if I ever need to do it again. Or anybody needs to do it again. I don't need to get it on the threads. You can use a little bit of threadlocker around the threads if you'd like. That's up to you, it's your prerogative.
Now what we're going to do is we're going to take off our little anchoring doodad here. Put that down for now. I'm going to try to get this lined up. See if I can get it here. Almost. These come in from the rear to the front. If I can get this in. There's one. Here we go, get that in. Slide in here. Like I said, you could use a little bit of threadlocker if you want to, or not if you don't. There's a torque specification for these. I'll let you know that in one second.
So here we go. I've got my 17, I'm going to hold it on the bolt side. Back here is a 19 millimeter. The torque specification for this is only 116 foot pounds. Okay? So if you're going to use a half-inch airgun, you know you can bottom it out and everything, but I wouldn't worry so much about really reefing on it. We're going to try to torque it down, okay? Now we'll just go ahead and torque them real quick. So I'm going to use my 17 here. I'm going to go ahead and torque down these nuts to 116 foot pounds. Just double check it.
Got our bolts. Both the same. Okay. 12 millimeter. There we are. Nice and tight. Do our sway bar link. That in there. Locking pliers. 17 millimeter. I'm just going to tighten this up. There we are. Get our pliers off of here. We got everything nice and tight down here, now we're just going to get the wheel on here and then we're going to bring the vehicle down so the vehicle's weight is on here. And then we'll go ahead and torque down the strut mount.
Time to get the wheel back up on here. Just going to go ahead and lift it up. Center cover. Hubcap. Whatever you want to call it. We're just going to bottom these out with our 21 millimeter socket and our long ratchet. Once they're all bottomed out we'll bring it down on the ground and torque them up. So now we're going to go ahead and torque these down with our 21 millimeter to 80 foot pounds. We're going to do a star pattern. Okay? One here, here, here, here, here. I'm just go around.
Okay, so here we go. We're going to just go ahead and bottom these out right now. I'm using a 15 millimeter socket. Going to torque them down after so you don't have to go too crazy. All right let's torque them. You're going to go 43 foot pounds with our 15 millimeter socket. Okay. You could just double check them all again. Get on there. There we are. We did not touch this nut. That's already preset. Got out little cover. Bonk it on there. Bonk, bonk. There we are.
Thanks for watching. Visit 1aauto.com for quality auto parts shipped to your door. The place for DIY auto repair. And if you enjoy this video, please click the subscribe button.
Tools used
Hey, friends. It's Lenn here at 1A Auto. Today I'm working on a 2007 Hyundai Elantra, I'm going to be showing you something fairly simple, rear shocks. I want to be the guy that shows you how to do this. If you need this, or any other part, you can always check us out at 1aauto.com.
Now it's time to loosen these up, okay? 21-millimeter, we've got out long ratchet here. I've got the majority of the weight of the vehicle off the ground, it's just barely touching, so I can remove the lug nuts, or at least break them free without spinning the wheel. Okay? I'm just going to give it a quick crank, not going to loosen it up all the way. Last lug nut, I'm holding the wheel, take off our hub cap. Now we're going to carefully take the wheel down and lower it to the ground, and we'll put it safely out of the way.
So, here we go. We're going to take out the lower area of this shock first, this side right here is a 19. I'm going to use a wrench, I'm just going to get it on there. The other side, also a 19. You can use a ratchet, you can use whatever you want. We're just going to get it off. I'm going to use an air gun. Just a little shake. Feels like it's pretty much ready to come out. There's my bolt, 14, 14. Whatever you got to do to take them out, you do you, Boo-Boo. There we go, just grab both of these. That's what they look like. They're both the same. Grab my shock, I'm going to condense it, pull it up and out.
So, we're going to be doing the rear shocks, right? It's important to remember that there's a big difference between rear shocks and front struts. Struts, generally speaking, have a big coil going around them, okay? A big spring. It looks something like this. If you're working on something that has a big spring around it that looks like this, you would not want to touch this right here. This is the nut in the center, okay? Where this does not have a big spring, that means that isn't compressed and there's no force that's going to want to drive it up when I take that nut off.
If you took off this nut on the top of that one ... unless you have that spring compressed. Okay? Big difference. Let's get it off. So now it's time to work on this, right? We got it out, the difference is our new shock doesn't come with this cap, okay? So to get that cap off, just a little rubber boot here, you just put this aside, it doesn't come out fully, just so you know, it's still attached there.
Right under here, there's a 17-millimeter nut, okay? So, you're going to want to remove that. An easy way to do that would be, well, an air gun, first of all, but if you don't have access to that just slide this down. We're going to grab on to the shaft with some locking pliers, so we can hold it, and then we'll just use our 17-millimeter, and our ratchet to take it right off. I'm going to try to grab onto this with some locking pliers, try to grab it as tight as I can. I think I can go a little tighter than that.
Okay. Behind here is our 17-millimeter nut. Here we are. I'm going to fully remove that. There's our nut. Set that aside, pull this off, there's our mount, get our locking pliers off of here. Pull that off of here, make sure it's in good condition, we'll set this stuff aside, and here we go. There's our old shock.
Over here we have our original rear shock from our 2007 Hyundai Elantra, we just removed it. Over here, we have our brand-new quality 1A Auto part. It's got the same mounting hole at the bottom there, okay? Same width. Looks pretty good. The cylinder itself is the same height, and this is a little shorter, but that's only because this is still compressed. In one second, I'll show you how to go ahead, and get this ready to go. With that being said, I don't see any reason why this wouldn't be a great part to install, so I'm going to go ahead and do it.
If you need this, or any other part, you can always check us out at 1aauto.com. Thanks.
So, now it's time to get this puppy charged up. What I like to do, push down, it's not going to come up super fast. We get this out of the way. I'm going to leave this plastic on here, let it come all the way up. Once it's hanging out there, I'm going to go ahead and bring it back down. I like to do this several times, at least three times. Three to five times would be best, never less than once. You need to get everything mixed up and charged in there. Every time you push it down, it gets a little stiffer, and that means you're doing the right thing here. Okay. So like I said, do that three to five times, and then you're clear to start getting all those parts put onto your new quality 1A Auto part.
We've got this all gassed up, right? We did our three to five. Easy-peasy. We're going to take this, slide right over, put the shaft through the hole, goes right down. This just kind of protects this right in here from as much debris and crud, whatever gets kicked up. It's going to help keep it out of there, okay? Pretty basic. We've got our mount. This goes right on top here. Flip this up, underneath there, there was a little lifter washer, nice and thick. That goes right there. We've got our brand-new nut. It's a little locking nut. You can see it's got little wedges on there. I'm just going to put it right up in here. Okay. Start's on. Here we are, it's pretty much bottomed out there. I still got to bring it all the way down, but that's as far as the lug's going to let me go, so I'll bring it back down here.
There's several ways you could do this. You can go ahead, and grab on to the top here, if you wanted to. Some locking pliers. I'm going to use a wrench, wrench this on, or you can use your locking pliers, grab all the way up, as close to the top as you can. You don't want to grab anywhere down close to where the piston rides up and down because if you create a burrow with this you don't want it hitting that seal, okay? The best way to do it would be to grab up there, but if you don't want to do the wrenching and sit there for an hour, just grab up as high as you can, because I know this shock isn't going to make its way all the way up to here, that'd be pretty much impossible. Clip that puppy down, take my ratchet, I'm going to get the right socket, and we're going to tighten it up.
We've got our locking pliers on here. I'm going to grab my 15-millimeter socket now, that's what size our new locking nut is. I was just thinking about something. I'm going to use my locking pliers, I'm going to come down a little lower with it, actually, just because I want to make sure that this can come down as far as it needs to, and if my locking pliers are holding it from coming down, then it might cause an issue. Here we go. I got that squeezed as far as it's going to go. I still got plenty of room. Perfect. Let's tighten this puppy up, 15-millimeter, air gun would be nice. Here we go. Go ahead and tighten it. Bonk, bonk. Here we are.
You want to make sure that this is closed. When you get it up on the body of the car, it will sit down there, you know what I mean? It's going to be hitting up against the body, so it'll be pinched nice and shut for you. Okay? So this spins, just so you know. When we go to get it into the vehicle, it's going to be like this. You might have to just compress it to get it between the knuckle and the body of the car. This is the lower bolt for the rear shock. I'm going to put a little bit of Never-Seez here. Okay. I'm not going to put it on the threads. If you wanted to put something on the threads, you can go ahead and put a little bit of threadlocker, that might be a good idea. Up here, I'm going to use a little bit of Never-Seez, not too much, just enough so someday, if I ever have to take these shocks back out again, they won't break up in the body here because getting those out once they break, super fun. And by super fun, I mean not fun.
We've got our brand-new quality 1A Auto shock here. What I'm going to do at this point, I'm just going to compress it. Okay. I'm going to put it up in here. There we are. Perfect. So, we got it hanging out, it's doing its thing, it's having a good time with its buddies. I'm going to line up the bottom bolt hole. I'm just going to wiggle the shock around so this bolt can go all the way through. There we are. Start the nut on. Like I said, threadlocker if you want, it's up to you, it's your prerogative.
We have our two upper bolts. Now that we have the lower bolt through, now's a great time to do the upper. Go ahead and do this, and we can just flex it a little bit, and get this over where it needs to go. I'm just going to start the one that does reach. There we are. Cool. You can take a jack or whatever you've got, try to jack this up. I'm just going to use something as basic as a pry bar. All I need it to do is come up enough to get my bolt started. Okay? Once I get it started, once I go ahead and tighten them down, it'll pull it right in. No worries. Easy-peasy.
We're going to tighten these up, 14-millimeter. Removing this one, and then I'll tighten that one up fully. Both of them look pretty good, so we'll go ahead and tighten it. Feels good. Let's get this one again, real quick. Very nice. Tight, tight. As you can see, the rubber seal up along the top that I was talking about is pressed right up against the body of the vehicle, we won't get any moisture in there, so now we can move ahead. We're going to go down to our lower bolt. That's going to be torqued to 116 foot pounds. Let's grab our tools. To get these started, or bottom them out, we're going to 19, 19. Okay. And then we'll go ahead and torque them down once it's fully bottomed out. There we are, 116 foot pounds with my 19-millimeter.
All right. It's time to get the wheel up on here. We've got our lug nuts closed, we've got our hub cap. I'm just going to take it, roll it up my leg here, get it on there, take my hub cap. We've got a little slot right there, where our valve stem goes through. I'm going to get one lug nut on while I'm still holding it, make sure it's on there good. There we go, the wheel can't fall off, now I'm going to grab the others. 21-millimeter. I'm just going to bottom these out. You can even air gun, if you have access to it.
All right. I want to make sure that we do this in a star pattern, so the wheel won't get kinked on like this if I tighten this one up and then this one, the wheel might be sitting like this, I might think I have these tightened down, and really, they're not. Right? I mean, pretty obvious. So, we'll get it close, we'll come down here. Air gun would make short work of this.
Time to torque this down, 21-millimeter, star pattern. I'm going to go 80 foot pounds. Let's go ahead and go around in a circle here now.
Thanks for watching. Visit 1aauto.com for quality auto parts shipped to your door, the place for DIY auto repair, and if you enjoyed this video, please click the subscribe button.
SKA61005
Fits great, and easy to replace, my daughter car feels like new, thank you 1Aauto
We're good replacements for my car.
You can hear me driving down the block with all the squeaking my suspension does and everything I was torqued to specs
Excellent parts and customer service.
Installed the strut and shock assembly in my 2010 Hyundia Elantra. The A1 Auto videos were a big help, car is riding great. Ride actually got much better over a period of 3 weeks, i'm assuming because i was unable to pump up the front shocks inside of the strut assembly.
Its fit as describe and following video really make a big help to installing self motivations . Good job the crew .
The parts fit perfet , I recieved on time , good price.
Bolted right up. Handles better, brakes better. Arrived on time.
Had great success ,with my 1purchase of Control arms and sway links . They came quick and went on just as fast . So , I went ahead and purchased the strut and shock bundle . Again parts looked identical to OEM part (Hyundai) . They made a huge difference in the ride . I also checked the condition of the parts I installed a month earlier and they look to be holding up great. I beat the hell out this car to it's just a beater I use to drive on my construction site . I will be purchasing the Tie Rod kit next .
I needed shocks and received it at half the price and a speedy delivery. Very fair co.to work with. Thank you.
Yes, this part will fit your vehicle.
We have a few different aftermarket companies build these parts specifically for us, as our 1A Auto house brand. They are manufactured to the same OEM specifications as the original part that came with your vehicle. If you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
