2006 Honda Civic L4 1.8L Automatic Transmission Lower Engine Torque Strut Mount TRQ MTA70701

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

I'm going to support the engine by using a floor jack and a piece of wood on the oil pan. Just have to put a little bit of light tension on it. You don't have to lift the car off the wheels with this. The upper torque rod is held on with three bolts: this one here, here, and here. You should have new ones on hand before you replace this. I'm using a 17 millimeter socket and extension and a large breaker bar. These have a lot of torque to them.

This one here, you can loosen this A/C line if yours isn't super rusty. Ours looks really rusty. I don't want a mess with it. There's some give to this, but be careful because if you pry on that too much, you could break the seal in the hose in here and then you lose all your refrigerant and your A/C won't work. But there should be enough space in here. I can sneak this in here and break this free.

To get to this one, it doesn't quite go straight but this is flexible plastic. You can go in here and break this free. With those broken free, I'll switch to a ratchet to make taking them out a lot quicker. Pull this bolt. It's like a little counterweight thing out. This bolt is a lot longer. Pull it out of here. Should be the slightest torque arm out.

Right now we're going to replace this lower engine mount that we had removed the torque arm to get to. You can find both of these brand new at 1aauto.com. So when we go to reassemble this, we'll have a new one in here as well. Now spray some rust penetrant on this before I try to remove it. Spray some over here on the little ground cable, some in here, and remove this ground strap bolt.

It's a 10 millimeter head bolt. Put that to the side. I'm going to need a 19 millimeter deep socket to get this nut off. Put that on there. Again, using the large breaker bar take this off. I'm going to use the same socket on this 19 millimeter. This bolt head here is a 17 millimeter head. Remove that. To get these broken free a bit, I'm going to spray some rust penetrant in here. I get on the threads, make it a little easier for them to come out.

Switch to a ratchet. Makes taking them out quicker. When you're removing this brace between the engine and the engine mount, just be aware that this bolt fits through here. It is actually captured. There's a little bubble here so it can't go through. As you start to loosen this, this will get to a certain point, it won't want to loosen any further.

Then you just have to be super careful because these are steel. Of course the engine is aluminum, and you can pull the threads out of here if you're not careful. I've actually damaged the threads a little bit, so I'm going to repair those. I've got a 14 by 1.5 tap, and I'm going to carefully just clean the threads up because I didn't strip them out totally, but the bolt is difficult to thread in, so I just want to get it started. It might help to put a little bit of oil in here so it spins.

Since there's not a lot of clearance here, I'm just going to use this adjustable wrench. Just gently turn this in. I want to try to get it set up on the threads first. This is going in pretty well. All I'm attempting to do is to clean up the threads that are already there. They haven't all pulled out. But the starting threads were kind of mashed, and I want to make sure that the bolt threads in there easily. That feels pretty good. I'll take it out.

It did clean out some junk that was on the threads. There is stuff that's in the hole. You should get access to compressed air. Just take a rag and the compressed air gun and do this. Get the bolt from the backside. Same thread, but you can see that this one threaded in really easily, and now this one threads in nice and easy too.

To avoid removing this aluminum brace, I'm just going to remove these two bolts and the two lower bolts holding this on and slide it out. Start with some rust penetrant. Let's spray some down here. There's a bolt in the back. I've got a 14 millimeter socket and a universal joint because I need to work around these lines in here, and I can't quite get a straight shot. Spray some more rust penetrant and try to work it down into the threads. It's nice and loose. Pull them up by hand.

Use a 17 millimeter socket and a swivel. To get down in here, again, on this bolt. We'll go after the rear bolt. Its power steering lines a little bit in the way. I'm going to pull up on the power steering reservoir to kind of loosen the line up. That bolt is loose. This one was really rusted in here. I just had to keep working it in and out and adding penetrating oil. It feels like it's finally coming loose now. Yeah, there it is. I'm just going to use our magnet to reach down there and grab it. Yeah, that was pretty rusty. That's why it was so hard to remove. No more bolts in here. This should slide out of here robust.

I'm going to lift up on the engine just to slightly try to give myself some more space, take that engine mount out. You basically just have to kind of lift up on the engine a little bit, maybe move the engine down, but fiddle your way and get this thing out of here. Otherwise, you have to take off the other bolt that's holding this aluminum part on and it's a little more difficult.

There's the engine mount. It's our original engine mount from our vehicle, our brand new one from 1aauto.com. So brand new one actually comes with this little aluminum part already installed. We're going to reuse it because the bolt that's in here is captured and is kind of stuck on here with the rust, so it's a little tricky to remove, but this bolt's in good shape so we're going to reuse this one.

I'll take this one off before we install it. As you can see, it's the same style design, solid rubber, that's just a little coating of rubber from manufacturing, same mounts on the top and the bottom. This would fit the vehicle and work great for us. This is a 17 millimeter head on this bolt. Try to remove it on the bench here. Removing this first will also make installation easier because you're not trying to mess with this plate on here. We'll just take it off.

I can see the original one. There's a pin that needs to line up. It'll line up and work perfectly for us. We're only reusing it because this bolt's already stuck in here and it's just easier to leave it in here. But if you need to, it comes the brand new one.

We're going to loosen this bolt on this aluminum brace to give us a little more wiggle room when installing them out. Use a 14 millimeter socket, extension, and a ratchet. I'm not going to fully remove it, just loosen it up. That gives me a lot of movement there now. Take a new engine mount and slide it into place. It's lined up.

Reinstall this front bolt. Reach down. Take the extension and the 17 millimeter socket and just thread it in there to get it started. Go for the rear bolts. I had to actually move the mounts to line it up. While everything's still kind of loose, I'm going to get these two bolts caught to this aluminum brace. I'm going to use a punch to help me line up these bolt holes.

I'm just going to snug these down. I'll snug down the other two mount bolts. Tighten this one on the fender, the aluminum brace. Torque these two bolts 36 foot-pounds. Yes, I'm using an extension and a universal joint, but it's very difficult to get in here, so do the best of what you can. The bolts that are down here go from the mount to the frame rail of 47 foot-pounds. This top bolt that goes into the side near the fender, 36 foot-pounds.

So just test fitting our little aluminum bridge piece here. Looks like I need to lower the engine on the jack. I can get this one started. I'm just going to thread it in by hand. There's other bolts in here. Thread that in by hand. Looks pretty level. I'm going to use this big punch to help line this up, pull the engine over, if I can get it to kind of catch on the little pin that's in there. That worked.

I've got our new bolts. Thread it in there. Just get it snug right now, switch to 19 millimeter for those, tighten this one down. The torque on these is 52 foot-pounds. Same for this one here. Don't forget to put the ground strap back on. That doesn't take much torque. Just snug it down.

Now we're going to install the torque arm. The nut under here is captured. It's in a slotted hole. This hole is slotted too. These are going to line up over here so it's going to install that way. I'm going to put some white grease down here, just to help it slide into place. I've got this lined up. Just had to push it kind of hard, and will find its spot.

Take that really long bolt and wiggle it around until you find the nut. Thread it down. Just tighten this bolt in. Torque these to 47 foot-pounds. Same one for this one. Lower the jack and take it out from under the car.

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