Replaces
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
This part fits 2 vehicles spanning 2002-2005.
| Year | Make | Model | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2002-2005 | Ford | Explorer | Ford Explorer Rear Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA11056 |
| 2002-2005 | Mercury | Mountaineer | Mercury Mountaineer Rear Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA11056 |
| Brand Label | Part Number |
|---|---|
| Raybestos Brakes | MGD881CH |
| Raybestos Brakes | EHT881H |
| Raybestos Brakes | SGD881C |
| Wagner | BD125759 |
| DuraGo | BR54098 |
| Aimco | 54098 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 680026 |
| Bendix | PRT5358 |
| Ford | 3L2Z2200BA |
| Mercury | 3L2Z2200BA |
| FMSI | CD881 |
| Raybestos Brakes | 680026R |
| Raybestos Brakes | 680026FZN |
| Raybestos Brakes | 680026P |
| Raybestos Brakes | 680026PER |
| Hollander | 533-02490 |
| Hollander | 533-02421 |
This item may be interchangeable with parts from other brands with the above part numbers. This information is provided only for reference and does not guarantee that the item you are purchasing is identical to parts with part numbers from the brands listed above. To confirm that this item fits your vehicle, use the above "Check Vehicle Fit" option.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you how to service the rear brakes. This is a 2003 Mercury Mountaineer. It's pretty much the same for any 2002 to 2005 Mountaineer or Explorer that has rear disc brakes. We show you the passenger side but the driver side is the same procedure. Always replace your brakes in pairs. The items you'll need for this are new rear brake pads and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com, a 10mm and 19mm socket and ratchet, flat blade screwdriver, jack and jack stands, torque wrench, large c-clamp, and a wire brush.
Start off by prying off your hubcap. Then remove these 19mm lug nuts. If you don't have air-powered tools, you want to loosen them up while the vehicle's on the ground, raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way. Now just pull the wheel free.
Then remove these two 10mm bolts back here on the back of your caliper. You can see we're using a wrench and then another wrench for some extra leverage. However, you can also use a socket and ratchet. We'll just fast-forward as Mike removes those two bolts. Once you remove both those bolts, just pull your caliper off and set it up here on your upper control arm. Using a flat blade screwdriver, you want to just pry on these two tabs on the outside of this brake pad while pushing down on the sides of the brake pad. It should pull free. Ours is a bit of a struggle since it looks like somebody actually used some gasket material to glue the brake pads in. Now pull this brake pad out of the piston, and then pull the rotor off.
On the left are the old brake pads and rotor; on the right are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same.
Take your new rotor and push it into place. Take your old brake pad and push it back into the piston, and then, using a large C-clamp, just want to open that up and put it onto the brake pad. Then just tighten up that large C-clamp and it will push the brake pad down, pushing the piston back into the caliper. Once the piston's all the way in, just loosen up and remove your large clamp and pull the brake pad free. Make sure that the slides on either side are loose and move back and forth. Ours move nicely, but they don't you'll want to force it out of the rubber boots, clean it all up, and grease it, and put it back in to get it to move smoothly. Then you put it back in and just make sure that the rubber boots are seated back down correctly.
Now take your brake pads and apply some brake grease to the tabs on either side of the pads. You want to start with the brake pad that goes into the piston. Just push it right in. Then take your other brake pad and apply the brake grease to the tabs on either end again, and you can apply some grease right here and then just slide the brake pad back down into place. Now, using a wire brush, clean up the brake pad slides on your caliper bracket. Then take your caliper and push it back into place. You just want to line up those tabs on the brake pads onto the slides on the bracket. You may need to give it a little force to get it on there all the way. Then we'll fast-forward as Mike replaces and tightens up those two 10mm bolts.
Now replace the wheel and then replace the lug nuts. Then we'll fast-forward as Mike tightens those up. You want to tighten them while the vehicle's in the air just preliminarily, then lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Then you want to torque each of these to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then take your hubcap, line it up, and hit it back into place.
After doing any work on your brakes you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour, then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. We've created thousands of videos to help you install our parts with confidence. That saves you time and money, so visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brakes. This is a 2006 Ford Explorer and I hope you like this video.
If you do, click the subscribe button, and also check out our channel for lots of other videos for this Explorer, as well as a bunch of other vehicles. You can also buy the parts in this video by clicking the link down below and visit 1AAuto.com.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 10-19mm sockets, ratchet, breaker bar, large flat blade screwdriver, hammer, wire brush, paper towels, brake cleaner, brake grease, large c-clamp, torque wrench, jack, jack stands
With the vehicle on the ground, 19 millimeter socket or your tire iron and loosen up your lug nuts. Raise and support the vehicle. You can use a jack and jack stands. We are using a lift. Remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, and remove the wheel and tire.
Use a large screwdriver, insert it here, and pry out to push the piston back into caliper. This'll help you get it apart easier. There's two 10 millimeter bolts to remove: one down here and one up here. Use a wrench or socket and ratchet to remove those. Once those bolts are out, use your wrench or your screwdriver and pry the caliper out. Set these bolts aside and then the outer pad, you have to push it out and then pry up. I'm pushing this way and then prying up and the pad comes out and the inner pad just pulls right out. You can either secure your caliper with a bungee or just make sure that you don't stress the brake hose.
Remove the disc. It should just pull off. There’s a lot of corrosion, so we're expecting a little bit of a fight. I'll put a lug nut on just to make sure it doesn't fly too far. If you're going to reuse your disc, you don't want to hit it with a hammer. We're going to be replacing this one, so we're not that worried about it.
You've got your original brake shoes and new ones from 1A Auto—they're all the same. They’re going to install exactly the same. If you're inspecting your old ones, this little mark here is a wear mark, so if it's gone, as it is on these pads, you know you need to replace your pad. See the new ones, nice large wear mark, so you know that they're in good shape. Rotors here: the original one and new one from 1A Auto. It’s exactly the same, has the provision on the back for the emergency brake, and will install just like the original. We're going to just preliminarily install our rotor.
Okay, and then we want to adjust our brake shoes so that there's some tension between the brake shoes and the rotor. Right now, it's very loose. So the best way to adjust is just use something, push up on the spring a little bit, and then you can just adjust out. Make sure as you turn it that you're expanding the gap between here and the adjuster shoe. You can feel a little bit of tension between the shoe and the disc, then I'll just do it a little bit more.
Okay, good tension, not too much movement, and now it's a little difficult to pull off, so I know I have the tension right. Brake parts cleaner clean off the surface of the shoes. Then the same thing, brake parts cleaner, clean out the surface of the rotor and install the rotor. Clean the rotor surface and the backside.
Use a wire brush and clean your slides here. If your car does have a lot of rust, you may want to pull these off and chip away at the cast iron underneath. A lot of times, what happens on these vehicles is that they rust. These expand and may cause binding in the brake shoes. If they don't look clean or if they look bowed out at all, you'll want to take them apart and make sure there's no rust built up underneath.
Use some silicone brake grease and grease these slides on the top and bottom. You want to reset the piston into your caliper so put your old shoe back in. This gives you a better point to press on. Big c-clamp and push it all the way back in. And you want to make sure that your bolt slides are in good shape and free and as long as they are you can put them back together. If not, you can pull them right out, clean them up, and use some silicone brake grease and reassemble them. We put some grease on the back of our pads, put the inner one in first and now push it into place. And then the outer one slides down and on. I need to pull those out just a little bit.
Make sure your bolt slides are all the way out, they'll get hung up otherwise. Put the top into place and put it down on and put your bolts back in. Tighten the caliper bolts to 24 foot-pounds. Reinstall your wheel and tire. Put the vehicle back on the ground, you want to tighten your lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Any time you work on your brakes, before you go out and test drive just pump them a few times, make sure you have a nice firm pedal before testing.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
I highly recommend this product.
Was what I expected good quality
Real good price and they delivered on time.
I ordered these from 1A auto because my dads truck brake pads were all the way to the metal and ruined his rotors as well. Once i ordered these i got them in like 2 days. Very fast delivery and good quality parts for the price. I think, this will be my new go to for parts, from now on. Thank you 1A auto.
Parts fit well.
I have been buying from 1A Auto for a couple years now and have always got the right part the first time,also the parts have been top quality and fit perfectly for a fraction of the cost of retail auto parts stores.
Showed up on-time and as-ordered.
Breaks were delivered in 3 days (free shipping) and went on as easily as OEM. Nothing but good to say about 1A Auto. Will definitely use there services again.
BKA11056
