2003 Honda Civic L4 1.7L Rear Engine Mount TRQ MTA70551

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear engine mount. This is a 2003 Honda Civic. It has the 1.7-liter VTEC motor, pretty much the same as any 2001- 2005 Civic with the 4-cylinder. Items you'll need include a new rear engine mount from 1aauto.com, 14mm to 17mm sockets with ratchet and extensions, a 17mm wrench, jack and jack stands, torque wrench, and some penetrating oil.

With the vehicle raised and supported, remove your four 19mm lug nuts. Now we'll be using the piece of wood on a floor jack to jack up against the bottom of the oil pan. Always be careful not to use too much pressure because an aluminum oil pan can crack. Just jack it up a little to support the motor while we disconnect the mount.

Disconnect the front exhaust hanger, and two, at the resonator. Let the exhaust hang. There are two 14mm bolts recessed into the subframe and one up top. Remove the three 17mm bolts on the rear engine bracket. If you have access to power tools, we recommend using them, but all this can be done by hand.

Turn the wheels all the way to the left to make enough room to move the motor mount through this opening. With the motor mount out of the vehicle, you can detach the rubber mount from the bracket. We're going to use a 17mm impact socket and an air gun. If you don't have access to power tools, you can also do this by hand.

Here we have our old part from the vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, all of our mounting locations are exactly the same. It's going to bolt right in just like your original.

We'll want to make sure these bolts face the bracket and assemble outside of the vehicle, and ensure that this spacer is on the outside of the bracket. We won't tighten the motor mount all the way so the rubber moves freely; otherwise, we'll preload the mount and cause premature wear of the part.

Put the motor mount back through the opening in the driver's wheel well. Install the smallest of the three bolts in the top hole. The longer two will go in the bottom two holes. Tighten by hand. Bring them down tight with an air ratchet or a hand ratchet. Torque to 47 foot-pounds.

Release your jack or, in our case, jack stand from the motor so there's no preload on the rubber mount. With the engine hanging, tighten the bolt through the center of the rubber mount with a 17mm wrench. Reinstall your three 14mm bolts. Reconnect the rubber exhaust hangers.

Reinstall the wheel and tire on the hub. Start your lugs by hand. Always tighten your lug nuts in a cross pattern. Let the jack or lift down so the tire touches without putting the full weight of the vehicle on. Torque your lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.