Replaces
Part Details
Specifications
Product Features
TRQ CV (constant velocity) drive axles are manufactured using premium raw materials designed to restore original performance. TRQ CV drive axles are new, so there is no core charge with your TRQ purchase. TRQ-designed drive axles utilize neoprene boots, moly grease, stainless steel clamps, and heat-treated ball tracks to ensure extended service life. Each TRQ axle is application-specific so each spline and thread will mate properly for a seamless fit. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
Note: This is correct for models with or without ABS brakes. The tone ring can be removed if the original CV axle did not have one and the vehicle did not originally come equipped with ABS brakes.
Note: You will need to reuse your original inner stub shaft with this new replacement CV axle. The splined shaft on the inner joint from your original assembly can be removed and installed onto the new CV assembly.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front axle. On this particular one, we're going to do the front right on a 2000 Chevy Cavalier. This is for a Cavalier with the 3-speed automatic transmission. It's going to be fundamentally the same operation of the right axle to the left axle. To perform this repair, you're going to need a new axle shaft from 1AAuto, a jack and jack stands, 30, 21, 19, and 13 mm sockets and socket wrench, breaker bar and a pipe to go over it if you need extra leverage, as well as a pry bar.
Take a 19 mm socket and, by hand, remove the lug nut caps that are attached to the hubcap. Once you have done that, pull your hubcap off. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, start with the vehicle on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts first, then raise and secure the vehicle. Remove the lug nuts the rest of the way as well as the wheel and tire. Put a little oil on the axle nut. Using a 30 mm socket impact wrench. If you don't have that tool, you can use a long breaker bar while somebody holds their foot on the brake to keep the axle from spinning. Also remove the washer that goes behind that nut. I'm putting a little bit more oil on the axle splines. I'm going to use a block of wood and a hammer to hit the axle out of the hub.
Two nuts hold the lower end of the strut to the steering knuckle. Turn the whole spindle assembly so you can get better access. I'm going to use some oil and spray down those two nuts on the lower part of the strut assembly just to make it easier for them to come off. Using a 21mm socket with a breaker bar and a pipe for extra leverage, I want to break those nuts free, both the top and the bottom. Once I've got those nuts loose, I'm going to use a ratchet to make it faster for me to get those off. Now fast forward as I take those two nuts off. I'm going to use a hammer to tap out the bolts that go through. Be sure not to hit too hard or hit the threads because you don't want to have a hard time putting the nut back on. Use a pry bar or a long screwdriver and pull apart the lower strut and the spindle. We need a little bit more room, clearance, to get that axle out of the hub so I'm going to remove the bracket that holds the flexible line to the solid brake line. That's going to give me an extra inch. That's a 13mm. I'm going to go ahead and fast forward as I remove that bolt.
Now I've got enough room to pull the spindle back and pull the axle out of the hub. Here's a view of where we're going to pry the right side axle out from. Under the car, for the right side axle, I'm prying between the axle shaft itself and the output housing. Once that's loose, give it a couple of tugs, and there's a little sur-clip inside that keeps it in, and it'll come right out.
To reinstall the axle shaft, put the transmission end in, make sure it lines up. Push it in firmly and make sure that the clip locks in. Do it a couple of times, make sure to push it in a couple of times, twist it, and then you can re-seat the hub end just by pushing it all the way in and then pushing it into the hub. Reinstall the washer and the nut that go on the end of the axle.
Here, we're just kind of preliminarily tightening the nut. We actually didn't get a shot of torquing it. You want to torque this nut after you put the wheel back on and you have the vehicle on the ground. You want to torque it between 145 and 150 foot-pounds. Reinstall the 13mm bolt that holds the brake line to the inner wheel well and I'll fast forward as I tighten that back up. Now, line up your spindle with your strut assembly and get it to the point where the holes line up and you can reinstall your bolts. Those bolts are splined a little bit so you can go ahead and use a hammer and seat them there fully before going ahead and using or putting the nuts back on. Once I've got those seated, I will reinstall the 21mm nuts that go on the ends and I'll fast forward as I tighten those up. With those two tight, I'll go ahead and torque them to 100 foot-pounds.
You can reinstall your wheel at this point and get the five lug nuts tight. With the car back on the ground or the wheel back on the ground, I'm going to torque the lug nuts to 90 foot pounds in a star pattern. Once I've got that done, I'm going to use the 19mm socket to tighten up the plastic caps on the hubcap. Just remember, there is a notch in the hubcap here for the valve stem. You're going to want to line those up. Once I've got those lined up, go ahead and tighten them up.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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