1994 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck 4 Wheel Drive Front 4 Piece Ball Joint Set TRQ PSA63216

Hey friends, it's Len here at 1A Auto. Today, we're going to be working on our 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. This is the four wheel drive version and we're going to be replacing the upper and lower front ball joints. It's going to be super easy. I can do it, and you can do it, too. As always, if you need any parts, you can check us out at 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

So, friends, something to remember. Here at 1A Auto, we do a lot of videos on a lot of different cars with a ton of 1A Auto parts. We have so many parts for almost every vehicle, you wouldn't even believe it. With these videos, what you might notice is in between doing the job that you might be happening to watch right now, you might see all of a sudden this new part just gets somehow installed in there. Well, that's because we cut away, we do another job, we cut back in, and basically when we're showing you the steps in your video that you're watching, we're just showing you the steps on how to do your particular part. Okay?

There's going to be a lot of other things that are going on and if you happen to see something that maybe strikes your interest, it's brand new brakes, or brand new ball joints, or brand new tire rods, or whatever the case may be, you happen to see it in the video that you're watching, maybe you want to check that out in our playlist. Just click right on it, 1A Auto. Boom. There you go. With that said, let's get to work.

Okay, so now we've got it up in the air. If you're going to be using an air gun obviously you didn't have to probably break all the lug nuts free. I'm going to remove all five of these lug nuts. All right. Let me get this out of here.

Okay, so what we're going to do first, now that we've got the wheel off, is we're just going to push back this caliper piston. Just a little bit, just so when we try to take off this caliper, it'll come off nice and easy. Simple way to do that is you can take your small pry bar, just come right in between here. Just give this a little push, just like that. That gave us plenty of room. Perfect.

So next, we're going to take out the caliper sliders. To do that, you're going to use a 10mm Allen head. If they're rusted, just put it in there. Give it a few taps. Hopefully, we'll be able to get this out. Oh, yeah. Got it. Something this old, this thing's a '96. So if this has never been replaced, I'm sure it's been out a couple times at this point and they just get worn, stripped sometimes. I'm just going to get it completely out of here to show you what it looks like. So there it is.

This is the slider and this is the bolt that goes through it. See if I can get this. There we are. There's the threaded end, and that goes down and screws into the bracket. Take this off here. There we are, that's the second one. Set that aside. I'm going to get this caliper off of here now. Sometimes you might need a pry bar. We'll see. Give it a little wiggle. All right, came off easy peasy. So here's your caliper.

All right, so now we'll grab the rotor. Take that right off of here. Okay. So now we need to get this axle nut off. To do that, you need to take out this cotter pin. That just locks this nut from spinning. If you have access to new cotter pins, you can go ahead and cut this one right off. If you don't and you want to reuse it, just do it carefully and try not to bend it around too much. I do have access to new ones, so I'll be replacing it, but that's pretty much what it's going to look like. Let's set this aside and we're going to take off this nut.

So let's get this bearing sprayed down again. Right up in here, along the outer portion right there, right there. Awesome. We're going to grab our inch-and-three-quarter and we're going to remove this axle nut.

Okay, so we have our inch-and-three-quarters, and go right on here and remove it. If you're using an air gun, make sure you're wearing hand protection and eye protection. If you're going to be using a ratchet, you need to get this down on the ground. If you're going to take a bar or whatever you've got and try to make sure that this can't spin while you try to remove the axle nut. I'll hold the axle studs and here we go. Awesome. Get our washer off of here.

Now we need to make sure the axle moves inside the bearing. Just give it a push. This one actually moves fairly easily. Surprise, surprise. If it didn't, you would take a center punch, go right in the center, give it a couple loving bonks with your hammer. You never want to hit directly on the axle. The reason for that is if you peen over any of these threads, it's going to be real hard to go ahead and reinstall the nut.

So now what we're going to do, we're going to take off this cotter pin and this nut. We're going to give the knuckle a couple loving bonks right along here. That's going to let this drop down. You're going to want to be careful, because there really isn't going to be anything holding it up, okay? So I'll show you what we'll do to help prevent any risks to safety or injuries or anything like that. The reason why we're doing that though, to continue the explanation. That way there, we'll be able to turn the knuckle side to side freely, and we can get to the bolts there from the backside there. If we can turn them freely, then we'll have a much better chance of getting them out.

If you have new cotter pins, you don't have to worry about ruining it. If you're going to be reusing it then obviously try to save it. Watch your eyes, this is going to come flying. Take that out of there. 21. Okay. You get it off, it's just a plain old castle nut. You'll notice there's a slot inside the tire rod, or a hole in the tire rod. That's going to line up with one of the slots on the castle nut when we're done. I'm going to take this castle nut. I'm going to put it on just a couple threads. Now when I give this a bonk and it wants to drop down, it's not going to go very far. It's not going to be able to hurt me, which is very important to me. I don't want to be hurt.

All right. It's time to give this a couple bonks. We want to be careful not to hit the boot or the tire rod. We also want to be careful not to hit up here and bend over the stud for our tire rod. Okay? So just try to hit directly on the knuckle, right where my finger is. Ready? Bonk. Just kidding. Here we go. Grab. You can use whatever you've got laying around to hold this up. You can use a strap of some sort or a bungee cord or whatever you want. I'm just going to use this because I have it right here. That holds it on there nice. If you're worried about losing your nut, put it right on there. Now look what we can do. We've got all the room in the world to get this done.

So I'm going to use a 12-point 9/16 socket. Go right on here. I've got my ratchet. You can also use an air gun if you want. You do your boo boo. I'll show you what this looks like. That's our bolt. If yours is rotted along the threaded area or damaged in any way, it's probably a great idea to go ahead and replace this. If you're going to replace one, just do them all. There's three of them on each wheel bearing. If you're doing both wheel bearings, you need six. If you're doing one wheel bearing, you need three.

This looks as though it's reusable. I would just clean it up. And personally, I would use a little bit of thread locker. But we'll say that that's your prerogative, you can do what you want. Set that aside and I'm going to do the same to the other two. There we are. Oh, this one's a little nastier. I'd say we're going to clean this up, make sure the threads are good, before we continue too much further.

All right, so we got that bolt cleaned up. As you can tell, it looks really good. I know what you're thinking, That's a new bolt, Len. No, it's not. I'm just that good at cleaning things up. So I'm oing to use one of these bolts and I'm just going to start it in there. Give it like a few good threads, maybe five or six turns around here but still leave a gap. Okay, you want to make sure you have a good amount of threads in there because we're going to use something like this now. You can get yourself an air chisel right at 1AAuto.com. Get yourself an adaptor that holds your socket. Eye protection. Here we go.

So that's working really great. We've got a nice gap going on here. Perfect. I'm going to give this a little spin and do the same over here. I'm going to grab one of my bolts and I'm going to try pushing it through from this side. That's working. Here we are. So we just need to get this to come out. Looks as though we're starting to get a pretty good gap up here. So I'm going to try to wedge something in there, maybe one of my hammerable pry bars, see if I can wedge it in and get this out, and then we can continue.

Just going to put a little bit of penetration here, let it do its job while we do ours. We're going to take out our bolts that we just installed to help drive this through, and then we should be able to get the rest of this out just using some pry bars. Get that out of there. Come over to the side that looks like it's coming out the least. It feels like it's getting pretty close. We'll continue doing what we're doing. The backing plate's not in the best condition. Here comes the bearing. There's our left front bearing. Easy peasy.

So now we have a nice, clear view of the axle. We're just going to clean out this area a little bit along here. Looks good enough for now. Grab our axle. Should be able to slide it right out. There we go. So now it's time to get the knuckle off of here. Okay? This whole unit right here where your bearing bolts onto is called your knuckle. We need to get this cotter pin off of here. That holds this castle nut tight, and under here you've just got a plain old nut. Nothing too special about that one. We're going to use some cutters. Pretty good odds, by the look of this cotter pin, it's not going to want to come out.

So more than likely what we're going to have to do is just cut it and what we'll do is we'll just hammer on our socket, and that should be good enough to get that off of there. So I'll grab a socket and we can continue. So I'm going to use my 22mm socket and I'm going to remove this nut. I have a swivel socket, an extension, and I'm using my half-inch air gun. This is a pretty dangerous setup because once the nut comes loose, anything can happen. Parts or tools can go flying, so make sure you're wearing your safety glasses. See, there's our nut in there.

So I grabbed our castle nut. We're just going to start this on just a couple threads on that upper ball joint. Okay? That's just so in case the knuckle decides it wants to come down, that nut's going to say, Hold up. Wait a minute. Now we're going to come down here. I'm going to use an inch and an eighth socket right on here. Fits on perfect. Safety glasses. Here we go. Awesome. Our nut's still in there. Set this aside and we can continue.

So here we go. A little bit of penetrant up in here. Hopefully it'll work its way up in there. Cool. I'm going to use my little hammer and I'm going to give this a couple bonks right on the knuckle, okay? You don't need to hit up on here, the ear of the differential itself. Just right on the knuckle. That's going to help cause vibration and it's going to break this free. We'll probably try giving it a couple whacks down here as well, just to see if it comes free down there.

So the good news is we don't have to bonk down here. And we put this nut here, which saved us from having this fall down and potentially hurting somebody and ourselves. Take our nut off of here. Here's our left front knuckle. Just something I want to show you with the upper ball joint. As you can tell, this ball joint is absolutely wasted. That's a lot of movement in there. So it's a darn good thing that 1A Auto supplied us with a brand new ball joint.

So what I'm going to do now is I'm going to use this tool that's available at 1AAuto.com. It's got a little cutting wheel on here. We've got our hand protection, our eye protection of course. We're going to cut this stud. Once we cut the stud, we'll be able to drive the ball joint up and out. Cutting right through. This is working great. We're almost all the way through. If you want to, grab some pliers, give it a little spin and try cutting from the other side. It's going to be super hot, so don't grab it by your hand of course. Almost there. Very nice. Now we have a spot where we can drive this right up.

Just giving this a couple bonks just to see if I can get it to break free from the differential tube. We're going to end up using the ball joint press unit anyway. Okay. Looks like it's maybe starting to break free a little bit but not enough. That's okay. We'll grab our ball joint tool and we can continue.

Okay, so we've got our ball joint tool on here. Just got to do what you've got to do to get it set up on there. Felt like it just broke free. Very nice. So now we're just going to use our air chisel. You can get yourself an air chisel right at 1AAuto.com. We're going to drive this straight up and out of here. Let's see if it's going to want to work. Here we go. Grab our air chisel again. Here it comes. It's going to come up and flying away, so we've got our eye and hand protection on already. Awesome. Okay, there's our upper ball joint.

Okay, friends. Time to get the lower out of here. We're going to use the hollowed out one so we can go over the shaft right here. I'm going to use the cup just like this. This ball joint is going to press down and out. I'm going to take our tool, go right up through the upper ball joint hole. Get this so it's ready to go. I like to bring this around so it hits right up against, that way it can't spin on me when I'm trying to take the ball joint out. You can use your air gun or your ratchet, whatever you want to do. Let's try it with the ratchet first.

There it is. We just broke free right there. Awesome. We're driving it right down. Some people do this with a hammer. Just come right on it, bonk bonk bonk. It's up to you, it's your prerogative. We have the tool, why not use it? It's getting ready to come off now. There's our lower ball joint.

So here we are, friends. A quick product comparison for you. Over here, we have our original upper and lower ball joints out of our 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. And right here, we have our brand new, quality 1A Auto parts. As you can tell, they match up with what we removed. We've got nice gnarled edges here. That's going to grip right into that differential housing. Same thing on the upper. You've got nice gnarled edges right along there. Brand new grease boots on both of them. That's always super important. And of course, brand new nuts.

There really isn't too much more to say about these, an exception of they're the same size as the originals. With that said, I don't see any reason why these wouldn't be quality parts to install onto the vehicle, so I want to go ahead and do it. As always, if you need these or any other part, you can check us out at 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

So to install this lower ball joint, you'll be looking like this. Up in here. The way that we're going to press it in is with this lip right here, but we've got a boot in the way. So we're just going to remove that. Obviously, we're going to have to take off the nut in a second, but I'll leave that there so when I take off this boot it doesn't fall and hit the ground. Here we are. Take off the nut, maybe. There we go. So now we can get right on this lip right along here. You don't want to go up inside up along this ball joint stud. You want to be out as far as you can on this lip.

Okay, so we have our ball joint. We've got some cups. What I did is I found a cup that'll fit right along the edge on this. Okay. Catches it. You'll notice that the ball joint stud comes down past the cup, so you need to use the adaptor that has the hole in it. You can put it whichever way you want, whichever way fits. We're going to take this cub, this cover right here, it's going to go right here. It's got a nice flat surface so when we put our ball joint press, it's going to be able to press up against this and it's going to draw the lower side up and in. I'll just get this on there just like that. Put this so it's centered. We want to make sure that that hole is completely around that.

Grab our ball joint press. Bring it up and in here. [inaudible 00:19:31] and loops here. Awesome. Reset, you wait that go. I'm just going to bring this around, just like that. Awesome. You can use your air gun if you want or use your ratchet again, you do your booboo, your gun will probably drive it up in there much quicker. So you'll notice when you go to drive it up in, sometimes it doesn't go up perfectly straight. You need it to go as straight as possible, if it starts going up a little crooked, it's okay. Just loosen up your ball joint press, give this a couple of taps and see if you can get it so it straightens out. Once a straightens out, you can continue.

Looks like it's pretty great. Very nice. That's going to be straight to continue this, I'm going to use my air gun now. If you don't have your air gun, you can continue with your ratchet, so here we go, safety glasses. Double check. It's like it's going up nice and straight. Let's continue. Okay, I felt like I wanted to stop, so we're just going check right along the sides here. It's like it's pretty darn flush, it's going to give it a teeny bit more. It's definitely not going any further while it's still on and it's under extreme pressure, I'm going to give this a couple of box right here. Here we are just a little bit of vibration, help get it in there. Now let's remove pressure. Awesome. Perfect.

Now we can continue on with the upper ball joint. We have our upper ball joint, we have the neural end that goes down into the ear and go right up from the top, slide it right down. Okay. Now you're going to get your ball joint set and you're going to find a cup that has a lip, that's going to ride right and along this lip right here. That looks pretty great. Grab a cup for down bottom, this one, you want to make sure it grabs along the edge of here and it's not anywhere near where the boots going to be.

You don't want to pinch your brand new boots, you put a hold on that, you're going to have to either get a boot somehow or replace the ball joint again where well, it could be multiple things that happen. But anyway, this is essentially going to go like this and it has a hole in the bottom of this bottom cup so that way this stud can make its way through. All right. So we'll hold that like that. I've got this little cover piece that's going to put that right up there.

Okay friends. So here we go, we've got our ball joint press set up, I just want to show you real quick, I was going to take this back apart to show you how I set it up, but in all honesty, it's pretty much at its maximum and it took two of us to get it set up on here. You'll probably have to do the same, you need to configure it in a way that you can have this stud coming down through the middle of something, you should have two tools that have holes going up through them and then of course the press itself has a hole going up through it. So the shaft, as you're driving it down into the differential you're there, it's going to be able to come down through the holes, just like that.

Okay. Up top, the way you have to press is right along this Ridge right here. You can't press on this area right here, if you try pressing straight down onto this, you just ruined your ball joint and you can go on one a auto.com buy yourself another one. This is what it looks like, it's sitting down inside here. We're getting ready to press right along this ridge like I said, we're going to grab some safety glasses and we'll give it a try.

I'm just putting a little bit of penetrating around here, maybe it'll help it along. I want to go ahead and lass this with my air gun, use your ratchet if you want. You need to make sure you're wearing your safety glasses, that's the most important thing, safety first. Just like we were doing the lower, you want to make sure that this is getting driven in straight up and down. If it's not just re-situate it. This looks like it's working great, so let's continue.

We're going to bring this lip all the way down to the ear. That looks wonderful. Okay, I'm going to use my hammer. I'm going to give the ear a couple bonks and that's only for vibration, and that'll help it just in case it's sitting just a teeny bit off. Just going to give it a little the vibration, we'll take a peek at it, make sure it's sitting all the way down, all the way around. This looks really great, nothing to worry about there. We're going to remove this, now when we go to relieve pressure from this, there's going to be nothing holding any of these adapters and doodads all on here. So you might have pieces going anywhere, make sure you're safe and here we go.

Here we are, just going see what I can get out of here. Gone off of there, here's all our adapters that we used. Double check our ball joint went around the whole way. Perfect, and our stud. All right. No damage to the top, that's very important. We'll grab our boot, we'll make sure we get that on there. Now's a perfect time if you want to add a little extra lubricant in there, you could do that. A little bit of a front end grease or anything you want to use could be helpful. Keep the moisture out of there, so we're going to grab our boot, just go right up on here. Presses right up in there.

Okay. Onto the lower ball joint boot, this one's going to be a little bit more difficult. You'll notice on your boot you have a little curve out there, that's going to go facing towards the inside of the vehicle that way. Getting this up on here can prove to be a little bit difficult, but it's not always and with enough persistence it can be done. Just going to try to use my pliers and squeeze along the edges here. Sometimes they're really hard to get up on there this time. I think that ... I don't want to say anything yet, but pretty sure you know what I'm saying, just by looking at it.

That actually went up on there very easily. That's awesome. Thank you, 1A Auto. Let's move along. We've got our two brand new nuts, we remember the castle nut, that goes to the upper ball joint, you can tell because it has a little hole there. The lower, which is a much thicker stud is going to have the bigger nut. I'm just going to take this, bring it right up in it, start on both at the same time. You can start with whichever ball joint you'd like. This one's easier for me to see. There's that, there's this one that up on there. Perfect. Let's go ahead and snug these up. So here we are, we're going to put this on. We can use our inch and eighth socket. We're right up on there. Last it up.

Here we are, it spins nice and free. Now let's tighten up this one, let's get this one up on here and use our 22. What we want to do is make sure that we have the slot on the castle nut lined up with the hole in the style. If it's not, you just give it a little turn, once you have a turn to the point that you can put a Cotter pin through, you're doing all right. Let's try a Cotter pin real quick, let's see how we're doing. All right, so it just looks like I need to go a little bit more. Oh yeah, that's nice.

Okay, so as you can tell when I put in the Cotter pin, it just bumps up against here. No big deal. I'm just going to grab it and pull down on the ears. Just like that, now I can continue. Just make sure that this spins freely. It does. It feels great, especially in comparison to the way those other ball joints were. Let's just check this one real quick. Yeah, that's nice and tight. Tight, tight, let's move along.

Okay, so we have our left front axle here. I just want to show you something fairly basic, checking out your U-joints for play. You can grab your one part of your shaft and the other part of your shaft, try to get more a little twist. If while you're twisting, you can see in between here and here go [squeaky noise] you got a bad U-joint. This one right here, it looks fairly decent.

If you do have a little bit of movement, you know what you can do? As long as you have a grease fitting, which is this right here we'll clean it out. We're going to add a little bit of grease and that'll probably take up the majority of the movement. Another thing to test for is, if you can take your axle and let go of this side and it doesn't fall down like that, it's just stuck. That means you have seized up bearings inside of your U-joint caps. You can also tell just by going like this side to side this way, if you're going feels free, free, free, stuck, stuck, free, free, free, or even stuck here or wherever.

If you feel any spot that feels like it sticks and then it goes again and sticks and goes again, you've got bad bearings inside there. So this feels great, you can check it just by going like this too. If it feels like it's stiff and it's stuck like that, then you got yourself a bad U-joint, you can just replace that fairly easily. So we're just getting our rag out of there, we're going to grab our axle, slide it right into the tube here.

Somewhere deep down inside here, probably right about here is where the seal is, that's the part that rides on the axle. The whole of it is in the center of this tube. So what you're going to need to do is get it in and then lift up if you can and make it. So the far end of the shaft that's down inside the tube, hopefully will lift up, that's our plan. How it happens is partially luck and of course some skill, that's pretty decent. I just used my prybar, try to get in there and try to give it a little wedge. So, we're just going to clean up this area of the knuckle where the backing plate and the wheel bearing are going to ride, try to have a nice smooth surface there. Safety glasses, hand protection, and this tool right here is available at 1AAuto.com.

That looks pretty great, it's clean it all down a little bit here. If you want to, you can use little parts cleaner. This looks fairly decent, we're going to use a little bit of copper anti-seize right along in here, and on these splines. The reason for getting it on these splines is so that when this axle slides into the wheelbarrow, it'll be able to move around a little bit, and then of course if there ever comes a day where I need to take it back apart for some reason, it'll come off nice and easy.

Same reason for in here. It's going to help keep things from seizing up and getting rusted and rotted together. Does it have to be perfect? No, it doesn't have to be perfect. Or maybe for you it does, I don't know. Me personally, as long as it's pretty good, even take my gloved finger, make sure it goes all the way around this, I'm going to go right up along here because well, why not?

Cool. All right. Let's grab our backing plate and move along. So our backing plate is in pretty poor condition, you could of course try to get yourself a new one if you'd like, or if for some reason you didn't want to replace it, you could just try to clean it up and try to make the best meeting surface as possible on both sides. For the purpose of this video, it's just an instructional video, so I'm going to just clean it up real quick, we'll make it so it looks fairly decent and we'll move along. So like we said before, the backing plate is in really poor condition. Theoretically, it might be a really great idea to just get yourself a new one. Like I said before though, also the purpose of this video is just an instructional video to show you how to install stuff, so I'm just going to trim this part off, it doesn't do anything.

Here we are. This can still go here, we're going to put the bearing up on there, it's going to hold hard up against here, here and here, and the backing plate won't be able to move around. I think we should be all set with it like that. Let's grab the bearing and we'll move along. We've got our three bolts, we can use a little bit of thread locker if you'd like, we'll call it your prerogative. Turn this, I'm just going to start these in here. There we are, cool.

Grab our backing plate, and our bearing is going to go right up on here, push that bolt through to hold it for me, that one as well, why not? The bearing itself, it's all the same all the way around. So there really isn't anything to putting this on, you don't have to be like, oh, there's ABS wire, anything really pretty basic.Get it up on here, just going to slide it up towards the vehicle, the axle sliding through the holes right here. Bring it in, keep on pushing. Very nice. Start in these bolts real quick and we'll bottom them out and we'll torque them down to manufacturer's specifications.

So we're just going to bottom out these bolts real quick. So we're going to torque this down with our 9/16 12-point to 125 foot pounds. There it is. All three of those are torques, so our bearing is nice and torqued onto the knuckle, we can continue. So let's grab our tire rod in here and get the nut off of there, put aside because we're going to be using it in one second.

This will end up in here, start that on, there we are. We're just going to bottom this out and then we'll torque it down. We're going to go 65 foot pounds. We'll just double check, make sure that our castle slot is lined up with the hole in the stud, which it is. If it was not, you would not want to loosen it to get it to the next slot, you would want to tighten it. I'm just go a little bit tighter until it lines up perfectly and you can get the Cotter pin through. Take our Cotter pin, just put it right through, this one end it up.

Just pin it over. Some people like to go to the side of the side, they do all sorts of special designs. I'm not that type, as long as it's curled over and it can't come out, that's going to hold this nice and tight, and it's good to go. So we've got our bar here, we're just going to go right inside the axle in between where the U-joint goes. Just try to get it up and in there so that that way, when we turn our wheel bearing, it can't turn very far. Once you have it in there, you can grab your sandwich in three quarters and we're going to snug this up and then we'll torque it down.

So we've got our washer and our castle nut, that up on there. You can see right here is where the cotter pin is going to go, there's the little hole. So once we get this on, we're going to snug it, then we're going to torque it and hopefully we're going to be able to get the Cotter pin to be able to line up with one of these slots and that axle hole. Torque it. We're going to go 175 foot counts. Looks like it lines up pretty well. Let's grab a Cotter pin and we'll put it in. In here, Cotter pins almost all the way in there. Grab this side, come on out, there we go, awesome. Take both these ends, pin them over.

There is no way that this cotter pin is going to be able to work its way out and also no way this nut will be able to loosen up on its own. Bar out of here and we can move along. We're going to use a little bit of copper anti-seize. That's just right on the meeting surface where the rotor is going to sit. We'll grab our rotor, get the rotor up on here just like that, awesome. I'm just going to do something to make it so the rotor can't move around, just have a spare nut laying around. I'm going to take my lug nut, slide it right like that. That just keeps the rotor from flopping around and any potential rust from falling down in between here and the hub behind there.

Let's get our caliper down here, you want to make sure that your hose doesn't have any twists. Maybe you lifted it up and you brought it around and you did all sorts of things, now you're looking at it and it's a big old curly-cue. That's obviously not going to be very functional and it's going to take up a lot of the slack that we need to be able to turn the vehicle, so we're just going to take it like that, we've got a nice little rainbow here.

Take our caliper sliders, push them in as far as we can, this one, it's pretty close. It's like it's almost ready to side on there. Oh yeah, here we are. 10 millimeter round head, same thing we use to remove these. I'm just going to wiggle it around till I feel like it starts to grab into the hole. It's going in, so I'm just going to leave it just like that for now, we'll tighten it up in a minute.

Now we're going to do this one, do the same thing. We wiggle around until it starts feeling like it's going in. It's definitely going in, that it's bottom though, come back down here, bottom this one now. Grab our torque wrench, we're going to torque these down to 38 foot pounds. Here we are, tight, tight. Just get this back off of here, we're going to grab our wheel, we'll get it up on here, bottom it out, and then we'll torque it down.

Okay, friends, so here we go. It's time to get the wheel up onto there. To do that, you never want to try and bend over like this, grab your wheel and lift with your back. You're going to potentially hurt yourself. And 1A Auto, we do not want you to hurt yourself. Show you something fairly simple. Bring your leg right up to it, grab onto it, roll it right up your leg just like this, and then lift with your leg/Ab muscles. That went up there easy peasy. We're going to grab our lug nuts. Start them on there. So now we're going to take our 19 millimeter socket and we're going to snug up these lug nuts in a star pattern.

The reason for going in a star is so that if we tighten it up and it kicks off to the side like this, we might think we have it all fully tightened and we might even torque it down, and the torque wrench says it is. Once you hit a bump, bonk bonk, this thing's free as goose. So, let's go like this. By going in a star pattern, it starts one side in, you do the other side, it sucks it right down, and then it'd be sitting nice and level for time to torque down.

Okay friends. So it's time to torque up our lug nuts. We're going to go ahead and use our 19 millimeter socket, and we're going to torque these down to 125 foot pounds. Okay. Do you want to go around one more time? Why not? It doesn't cost you anything. Small price to pay for safety. Torqued, down the road we go.

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